Tips for The Months of February & March

Spring can be busy months with the planting/starting of tuberous begonias, pansies, petunias and tomatoes on the “to-do” list.

Starting seeds indoors before spring, extends the otherwise relatively short growing season (120 frost free days) so that vegetables such as tomatoes, and peppers are more likely to produce ripe fruit.

Small seeds do better if sown indoors simply because there is more control over the environment – as in no sudden changes involving wind, sun, rain, drought, temperature, or squirrels.

Starting seeds indoors sometimes gives more choices of varieties. While garden shoppes usually offer the more popular flowers and vegetables in their bedding plant assortments, it is often necessary to buy and grow your own seed for unusual or older varieties.

Containers used for seeding should have good drainage and be able to hold soil and water. They should be about 7.6 cm (3 in.) deep to prevent soil and seedlings from drying out. Square containers use less space than round ones.

You should try to create a closed environment that can help to add warmth and humidity.

Trees & Shrubs

It is time to begin pruning trees. Do not prune birch and maple because they “bleed” except in July. Do not prune shrubs that flower on last year’s growth such as lilacs, and Nanking cherry.

It is easier to see and handle a tree when they are leafless and we do it now to minimize disease transmission.

Pruning can serve a variety of purposes but generally it is to improve a tree’s appearance, health and vigor.

Know your limitations. If a branch is larger than 2 inches do not handle the job alone. Call in a professional to do bigger trees.

Houseplants

The best time to re-pot a houseplant is in late winter or early spring – February/March are normally the best months.

Prepare the new pot. Select a clean pot, one or two sizes bigger than the existing one.

Drainage is the most important factor for the health of a re-potted plant. Make sure the drainage is good in any pot you are using.

Cover the drainage whole with landscape fabric. This will stop soil from coming out of the pot when you water.

Remove the plant from the existing pot. A tricky and potentially damaging operation so be careful. The way to do it is to turn the plant upside down with one hand holding in the soil and stems. Tap the pot with your other hand until the pot comes away from the roots. You may need help to support the plant and prevent damage if the plant is particularly large.

Have a good look at the roots and cut away any that are damaged or diseased. Use a sharp knife for this.

Remove the top (½ inch) of potting soil. Carefully separate the roots at the bottom of the root ball trying to damage as few roots as possible. Remove any stones and tease away the old soil.

Place the plant into the new pot. If it goes too far into the pot, remove the plant, add potting soil into the bottom and place the plant on top. Do not bury the stems of the plant any deeper than they are in the existing plant.

Start to fill round the sides of the root ball with fresh potting soil. Gently firm the potting soil down the sides with your finger or a round stick. Continue doing this until the sides are filled. It often helps to tap the pot on the floor to ensure the potting soil goes as far down as possible. Spread potting soil over the top to the level of the old potting soil.

Firm down the top and water well. Place the plant in good, filtered light out of any direct sunlight for the first couple of weeks, and stand back and watch it grow!

Do not fertilize for at least a month because the new potting soil will contain nutrients.

Email us at info@earthtonesgarden.ca if you have any questions.